Tucked into a warehouse in the Ballard neighborhood of Seattle, Ethan Stowell's newest venture, Staple & Fancy Mercantile is ultimately impressive in every aspect. The atmosphere is reminiscent of many trendy restaurants: it's a relatively small space, but not cramped (but every table was full, and on a Wednesday night.) An antique painted-brick billboard makes up the largest wall of the building, a strangely comforting and appropriate choice of decor. The staff could have painted over it, but it seems to tie the whole place together. Ultra sleek and modern flatware, seating, and tables contradict the unfinished floors and bare rafters of the ceiling. It sounds like it would be a dissonant clash of style, but it just comes together so perfectly. Staple & Fancy houses an open kitchen armed by a small line of cooks who seem to smile a lot. It's no surprise why; based on the food they turn out, it's obvious the kitchen is having just as much fun at Staple & Fancy as the customers. My companion and I decided to heed the staff's advice and let the kitchen decide what to feed us. This option is printed directly on the menu:
"Thanks for joining us at Staple & Fancy Mercantile. Please feel free to order as much or as little food as you like. And, if you would like to avoid the trouble of ordering altogether, please feel free to hand your menu back to your server and let the kitchen prepare you a family style supper served in four courses for $45 per person. Participation by the entire table is required. We would also like to inform you that you really should do this."
We needed no other encouragement. The onslaught of food that was to come blew us away. What is advertised as four courses is a little misleading. It is more like four distinct performances, four symphonies, or four novels. It all comes together as a cohesive whole of a meal, but it is far beyond what you might expect. First course actually spanned over seven (yes, seven) different plates.
First was
Bluefin Tuna Crostini, a thin and crispy baguette slice topped with a creamy but meaty bluefin spread.
Next was an
Escolar Crudo w/ Cucumber and Chile. It was nicely sweet and lively, as well as being the first major step from the beaten path of food you normally see in restaurants.
At this point, we thought we were done with the first course. We were most fortunately wrong. Just as we finished with the crudo, two staff members appeared with arms full of plates.
Rabbit Terrine w/ Arugula and Shallot was one of my favorite plates of the night. Having never eaten rabbit before (but perfectly willing to do so), I can say that I had the bizarre thought of "Yes, this is how rabbit should taste. I've never tasted this before, but this is somehow what I imagine rabbit should be like." It was a beautifully smooth and creamy preparation that retained a very specific meatiness. I'm a sucker for arugula and shallots so they disappeared too.
If rabbit was just a step off the beaten path, the next dish was on a different continent altogether. I will openly admit I had a moment's hesitation before diving into the next dish, but am I so glad I did. After all, it's all about being adventurous and trying new things. Eat boldly!
Beef Heart w/ Beets scared me. I am all for the well-being of animals, but I am also a proud omnivore. I readily accept the fact that an animal dies to feed me; I have come to terms with this. But the stigma of eating the heart of an animal gave me pause. It was served very rare, an extremely dark red in color (although my photos appear much brighter.) The texture was slightly firmer than I expected, and the flavor was both new and familiar at the same time. My friend commented "It has four flavors!" It was supremely beef-y, but so much more at the same moment. It also had that added criminal appeal of "should we be eating this?" that happens once in a while, especially when you're presented with something extremely unfamiliar or very special. This dish readily fits both conditions; it was great, but it was not for everybody.
The next plate was probably the only one of the night that was not extraordinary.
Octopus Salad w/ Chickpeas and Olives was beautiful, but unfortunately undercooked and swimming in a shockingly astringent dressing. I really wanted to like it, but it was, regrettably, the low point of the meal.
It's hard to go wrong with any combination of garlic, butter, breadcrumbs, and oysters.
Broiled Oysters puts it all together in one awesome forkful. Not only are they absolutely gorgeous, but they tasted great too. Slide your fork underneath the meat and gently wriggle it out of the shell. Enjoy!
The final component of our first course was still coming. We're stuffed at this point, and we still have pasta, an entree, and dessert to come. Onward we press!
Squash Soup was supremely buttery and a return to the land of the familiar after an exotically adventurous first course. Served in espresso cups, a handful of small sips gets us ready for knockout plate #2.
Remember that rabbit terrine from way back? I would have said I'd go back to Staple & Fancy just for more of that dish, but I'd say the same thing about some of the other plates. The pasta course we shared is one such dish.
Gnocchi with Lamb Ragu was simply perfect. Supremely tender gnocchi suspended in a confounding ragu. Just enough tomato flavor, a nice spicy kick on the back of the tongue, a little bit of weight added by the lamb. I will hands down say this is the best gnocchi I've ever had, and will follow that claim up just as quickly by saying it's the best pasta course I've ever had. If you're going to order one thing at Staple & Fancy, look to this.
The pasta course floored me, but the entree really resonated with my dinner companion. She remarked that it was like comfort food for her and it was one of her favorite dishes of the night.
Sturgeon w/ Farro, Butternut Squash, Onion was excellent. The sturgeon was perfectly grilled, just flaking and supremely moist. I remarked that the squash was a nice touch, complementing the fish and tying the other two ingredient together. It was a very nice plate; familiar yet elevated slightly.
After such a great meal, there was some pressure on the kitchen (I thought) to close us out appropriately. Even the greatest films are spoiled by a cheap ending, television series ruined if the cliffhanger isn't catching enough, novels desecrated if the author gives up on the characters. Would Staple & Fancy send us out the door on a high note?
A most definitive yes.
Ricotta Cheesecake w/ Huckleberries was, hands down, the course of the evening. Without question it was the lightest, creamiest cheesecake I've ever had the pleasure of enjoying. The huckleberries were sweet and juicy, complimentary without being obtrusive. It's a trick to have a decadent dessert that doesn't overwhelm; compound that with the previous three courses, and the kitchen is in serious risk of sending you into a deep food-coma. The ricotta is so airy and doesn't weigh you down in the least. It was a perfectly executed finale to one of the greatest restaurant outings of my life.
Staple & Fancy Mercantile is something very special. It's well worth your time and your dollars; trust the kitchen and let them decide what to feed you. You will absolutely fall in love with this restaurant and the food being served. Eat adventurously!
Grate the cheese and mix in herbs and pepper. Make small piles of the mixture on a baking sheet and spread until just thin enough that you can see slivers of the baking sheet through the cheese. Bake at 350 for 2-4 minutes, until melted and beginning to color. Remove from oven and let sit for 5-10 seconds. Using a spatula, gently remove from the baking sheet. Immediately drape over a dowel and seal the overlap to make tubes, press into muffin tin to make cups, or let sit flat to make chips. While still warm, you can slice the chips into strips. Arrange in a salad, on top of a soup (immediately before serving to avoid sogginess,) with a dip, or just as a snack.
Grate the cheese and mix in herbs and pepper. Make small piles of the mixture on a baking sheet and spread until just thin enough that you can see slivers of the baking sheet through the cheese. Bake at 350 for 2-4 minutes, until melted and beginning to color. Remove from oven and let sit for 5-10 seconds. Using a spatula, gently remove from the baking sheet. Immediately drape over a dowel and seal the overlap to make tubes, press into muffin tin to make cups, or let sit flat to make chips. While still warm, you can slice the chips into strips. Arrange in a salad, on top of a soup (immediately before serving to avoid sogginess,) with a dip, or just as a snack.
